Deep in MO

July 14, Marshfield, MO

This is the roller coaster section of the route. West-bounders complained about it during our roadside encounters. Although I haven’t gotten to the Ozarks, I’m enjoying the ups and downs. What drove me nuts in the western sections of the route was the lack of pay-off for my effort. I’d grind up and up a huge hill, mountain or bluff for hours and expect to be rewarded with a great downhill. Not so. I’d top out and the road would simply level out, or maybe go down somewhat but not equal to what I had invested.

Here, there are lots of ups but they are short and there’s always a great roll down. Given the right spacing and decline/incline of the hills you can roll almost to the top of the next hill. Seems very democratic—I put in this much effort to get to the top and I am rewarded with a fine, cooling roll down the other side.

In addition, the scenery is constantly changing, unlike Kansas, Wyoming or eastern Colorado. Plus, there are trees! Ah, brief periods of shade. They were greatly appreciated today when it hit 96 degrees at 2 p.m. and heat index was 104 degrees.

As I sat eating my Subway sandwich in Fair Grove a guy asked if he could sit next to me. He peppered me with the usual questions about where I started, where I’m headed, where I’m from, etc. “I’ve always wanted to do what you’re doing, ever since I was a teenager,” he said. He used to work in a grocery store in Hartville, a town I’ll pass through tomorrow. “Riders would stop all the time to stock up and I talked to them about where they were going, how long it was taking them, why they were doing it. It just sounds like such a great experience,” he said. He left saying it looks like he’ll have to wait until he retires to satisfy his teenage fantasy. I urged him not to wait.