Missoula, Montana

My layover day was enjoyable and needed. Missoula’s wide streets, low buildings, river -side location, and well-preserved turn-of-the-century structures give it a relaxing, comfortable, walking atmosphere. Being the home of the University of Montana there’s a vitality created by the college students. My first stop of the day was at the Adventure Cycling Association, the group that creates the maps I’m using on my ride. They serve many other purposes but the primary one is to support and encourage bicycle touring.

The moment I stepped in the door I was greeted by that day’s “official greeter.” After taking my picture and posting it on the wall of the riders who have stopped by, he took me on a tour of the facility which ended in the room “only for touring riders.” There I could drink as many sodas and eat as much ice cream as I wanted while using a computer. Perhaps seeing a glutinous glint in my eye, Kevin said that the previous Friday a rider had eaten six ice creams. I demurely took one and departed.

The rest of the day was spent going to the art and natural history museums, wandering through art galleries, lounging in a book store and eating a day-old (cheap) muffin with my coffee at a java joint.

Having come from Beervana (Oregon) and travelled through the hopless wasteland of central Idaho, I needed a good brew. I walked across the river to the Kettle House Brewing Co. eager for some good beer and food. What I found was the idiocy of Montana liquor laws and the power of the tavern lobby.

When I asked for a pint of Joe Bong Porter I was handed the beer but also a dated beer card stating “Beer 1, Beer 2, Beer.” Beer 1 was circled. Montana law (16-3-213) states that a brewery can serve a maximum of 48 ounces of beer per customer per day and only until 8 p.m. Seems the tavern lobby, having been in place since the West was opened up, got the legislature to declare breweries as tasting rooms. Three beers and you’re out by 8 p.m. If you want to serve your own beer and food, you have to get cabaret license, very expensive, and you must offer gaming machines. Taverns can serve beer, wine and liquor and operate at almost at any time.

As a result, everybody was standing around drinking and talking loudly as if it was a frat party. This old croaker felt out of place, downed his beer quickly and went looking for a restaurant.